1. Introduction
Wool is one of nature’s most loved natural fibres, for its warmth, gentleness and irresistibility. Wool can be used for all sorts of purposes ranging from sweaters to blankets. But its brittle nature calls for careful handling, for lack of care is the cause of one of wool’s worst curses: shrinkage.
Most of us know the horror of taking a favourite wool sweater out of the washing machine to discover it has grown a few sizes too small. This is usually caused by not being aware of wool’s response to heat, water and motion. Fortunately, shrinkage can be minimized through proper handling and care.
This post is about learning why wool cloth shrinks and how you can help to preserve your wool clothing. In the end, you’ll know exactly what to do to maintain your wool items in perfect condition for years to come.
2. Understanding Wool Shrinkage
Wool shrinkage is a process governed by the peculiar properties of wool fibers. It’s important to know the science behind shrinkage and what causes it in order to avoid it.
What Causes Shrinkage?
1. The Structure of Wool Fibers
Wool is composed of keratin, a protein found naturally in human hair and nails. Wool skeins are fringed by tiny overlapped scales that fuse together under certain circumstances. Wool’s remarkable elasticity and warmth are a consequence of this peculiar structure, but it is also liable to shrink under heat, water and motion.
The scales of wool contract and lock together in response to these factors, making the fabric thick and bulky. This process, called felting, accounts for the massive shrinkage we usually observe in wool shrinkage.
2. The Impact of Heat, Water and Convection.
Wool shrinkage occurs in three main causes:
- Heat: The wool fibers expand at high temperatures and the scales expand to encourage more friction.
- Moisture: Water smooths the fibres, enabling them to stretch and hold together.
- Stimulation: Mechanical friction (rubbing or tumbling) accelerates interlocking and causes felting and shrinkage.
Also Read : How to Wash Wool Fabric
3. The Science Behind “Superwash” Wool
Wool fabrics that do suffer from shrinkage are sometimes treated through a process called “superwash”. This involves chemically extracting or coating wool fibres to keep them from clogging up. Superwash wool tends to be machine washable, so it doesn’t shrink as easily. But even treated wool requires tender handling to maintain its luster.
Wool Types Less Exposed to Shear Shrinkage
Not all wool fabrics are equally prone to shrinkage. The kind of wool and the way it is treated all influence its reaction to washing and manipulation.
1. Untreated vs. Treated Wool
- Wool not treated: Natural wool fibers that are not chemically treated have the original fiber structure and are prone to shrinkage. These fabrics must be delicately handwashed or dry cleaned.
- Tanned Wool: Wool labelled “machine washable” or “superwash” has been treated to reduce shrinkage. The clothes will be more resistant, but you still want to wash them delicately with wool detergent and cycle.
2. Fine vs. Coarse Wool Fibers
- Fine Wool: High-quality wools, such as cashmere, merino and lambswool, are made with thinner, more fragile fibres. Because of their smaller size, they are prone to being felted and shrinking.
- Gritty Wool: The thicker the wool, such as rug or heavier coat, the more dense the fibers will be and the less it will squirm. But even mistreatment can be harmful.
The Consequences of Shrinkage
When wool shrinks, it is radically transformed in size and shape. The once-pliable fabric thickens, and the stretch is lost. This makes the garment useless or at best indistinguishable. How to avoid shrinkage starts by getting to know the root cause and nature of shrinkage.
Be sure to read the following sections where we’ll talk about the most common shrinkage mistakes, how to avoid them, and how to treat wool fabrics in the long run!
3. Misconceptions That Cause Wool Loss Common Mistakes
Wool is a natural fibre prized for its warmth, softness and adaptability, but it must be treated carefully to preserve its purity. Even the most well-meaning errors can cause shrinkage or damage that makes clothing unusable. Here’s a breakdown of these pitfalls and why they shouldn’t be followed.
1. Using Hot Water During Washing
- Why It’s a Mistake
Warm water softens wool fibres and loosens their protective scales, locking them together. This process, known as felting, leads to irreversible shrinkage. Wool is particularly brittle, so even very warm water can cause a pronounced increase or decrease in size and texture.
Examples of Damage
- A cardigan that’s half its previous size.
- Wool grows heavier and harder.
How to Avoid
Wash wool in cold or lukewarm water, which helps to stop the wool from becoming felted and shrinking.
2. Fastening or Washing Wool Closely (but firmly)
- Why It’s a Mistake
Over-agitation ruffles the wool fibres, making them rub against each other. This mechanical movement pushes the felting outward and causes shrinkage and bending. Cleansing wool, particularly in wet conditions, compromises the fibre and gives it a rough feel.
Examples of Damage
- Clothes of wool being stretched out.
- Surface pilling and roughness.
How to Avoid
Swirl wool lightly and do not scrub. Instead, pat the cloth or soak it to loosen up mud.
3. Using the Wrong Detergent or Dangerous Chemicals.
- Why It’s a Mistake
Most household detergents have enzymes or toxic chemicals that destroy the natural oils of wool. These oils help keep wool hydrated and flexible, and when these oils are taken away, wool becomes stiff, wet and susceptible to shrinking.
Examples of Damage
- Stiff, scratchy texture.
- Fibers becoming weak and breaking.
How to Avoid
Make sure to only use a wool-specific detergent. These products are pH-balanced, and don’t contain harmful chemicals, leaving the fabric at its natural state.
4. Woolen Garments Should Be Wrung or Twisted to Drain Water.
- Why It’s a Mistake
Wool is so stretchy that when you try to twitch or wring a damp garment, it breaks the fibres beyond their capacity and deforms irreversibly. This, in turn, leads to uneven drying where the garment does not take its natural form.
Examples of Damage
- Sleeves or hems becoming misshapen.
- Fabric becoming loose and unforgiving.
How to Avoid
Let the water run away without wringing. Put the wool on a towel, roll it up, and dry it.
5. Wool Care: Drying Wool in a Tumble Dryer or Under the Sun.
Why It’s a Mistake
A tumble dryer will shrink it by causing the fibers to stretch and bundle together. Likewise, direct sunlight can dry out the fabric and tint it. Because the wool’s organic structure doesn’t allow for high temperatures, air drying is the safest option.
Examples of Damage
- Significant shrinkage after drying in a tumble dryer.
- Brittleness or colouration from exposure to the sun.
How to Avoid
Place woollen items flat on a dry clean surface in a shaded, ventilated room. You should shape the piece while it’s still damp to keep it from becoming distorted.
4. How To Prevent Clothes From Shrinking Woolen Fabric?
Shrinkage is avoidable by washing, drying, and maintaining woolen garments in advance. If you adhere to these guidelines, your wool objects can remain in great condition.
During Washing
- Use Lukewarm or Cold Water
Wool works best at a cool or lukewarm temperature. This reduces the likelihood that the fibers will swell and the scales will adhere, keeping it from shrinking.
Select a Wool-Specific Detergent
Use detergents that are geared towards wool. These are softer on the fibres and help keep them soft and damp.
Rinse Carefully By Hand, or With the Wool Cycle In A Washing Machine.
- The safest method for valuable or delicate wool is handwashing.
- For washing on a machine, use the wool or delicate cycle with little to no agitation and cold water. Place the garment in a mesh laundry bag to protect it.
Additional Tips for Washing
- Avoid overloading the machine.
- Wool should not be treated with bleach or fabric softeners.
During Drying
- Blot Woolen Clothes Flat to Dry.
- Wool weighs a lot when damp, and tying it up can stretch the yarn. Rather, place the dress flat on a clean absorbent towel.
Reshape the Garment While Damp
Wool becomes elastic when wet, so this is the perfect opportunity to change the fabric. Take care to smooth edges, hems, and seams so that the garment remains as its original shape.
Do Not Hang or Be in Direct Heat.
- The hang can distort the shape of the garment.
- Heat sources such as radiators or sunlight dry wool unevenly and brittlely.
Best Practices for Drying
- Choose a flat drying rack if possible.
- Turn the dress around from time to time to ensure it dries evenly.
General Care Tips
Read the Care Label Before Cleaning Always Check the Care Label Before Cleaning
Every wool garment is issued with a care label that describes its material in detail. Read these instructions closely lest you mess things up.
- Consider Dry Cleaning When unsure of the fabric’s Washability.
- Dry cleaning is the best bet for particularly fragile or costly items. Make sure to hire a trained cleaner that has expertise in working with wool fabrics.
5. Spotting and Fixing Shrinkage Issues
Wool clothing will sometimes shrink even when properly protected. Learning how to recognize shrinkage and explore potential remedies can limit damage. Sometimes shrinkage is permanent, but there are ways to salvage the fabric’s look or repurpose the piece.
How to Identify Shrinkage
The first step to correcting shrinkage is to establish whether it has already happened. Wool clothing shrinks in size, texture, or form, and understanding what is happening can help you determine what should be done.
1. Changes in Dimension, Texture, or Fit.
- Size: Often, the most blatant indication of shrinkage is a small reduction in the size of the garment. Even a sweater that used to fit may get too tight and sleeves become shorter than usual.
- Skin Texture: Wool typically feels silky and smooth. When the fabric is drier or rougher, it may feel harder. Scales on the fibres stick together, rendering the fabric more or less rigid.
- Fit: Shrinkage affects how the clothing fit. It might tighten up in places or it loses its natural drape and movement. The fabric may also get loose and feel less elastic or comfortable.
2. The Clothing Is Firmer or Weaker.
If you feel that the wool feels much heavier or denser than before, this is probably because the fibres become felted, or they become tightly knit together. It can deflate the fabric, causing it to no longer stretch like it used to.
- The wool will probably feel thicker and less breathable.
- It could also cause the clothing to deflate or look bulkier than it ought to be.
- If you notice these alterations early, then you will know whether or not the garment is repairable or should be reused.
Can Shrinkage Be Reversed?
What’s unfortunate about wool shrinkage is that it can’t be completely undone. Shrinkage – particularly with the aid of felting – breaks up the fibres of wool so that they will never fully resume their original form. But some procedures can restore the garment or mitigate its loss.
The Limits of Unshrinking Wool
Though we might like to believe that shrinkage can be reversed entirely, wool fibres are brittle, and once interlocked and felted they tend not to stretch back to their original dimensions. But if you treat it right, you can sometimes catch up on some lost volume and resize the fabric.
1. Reversing Minor Shrinkage
If you have a slight shrinkage, you may be able to gently stretch the wool back into the original shape. But this works only when the wool isn’t too stiff or felted. The way you can try it:
- Massage with lukewarm water: Add a wool-friendly conditioner to a basin filled with warm (never hot) water. This relaxes the fibers and makes them loose.
- Smooth sizing: After the soak, smooth the garment to its original size. Use slow and delicate strokes so as not to over work the wool. Carefully, using a towel or flat surface, keep the shirt upright while you make it fit.
- Flat drying: Dry the dress flat on a towel and adjust it back to its natural shape. Do not dry the garment – this will stretch the wool in unwanted places.
This technique works well with wool garments that have undergone minimal shrinkage and are still quite stretchy. If the wool has already felted or is severely compressed, the garment may never be regenerated in size.
2. How Hard It is to Reattach Felted Wool.
Once wool has felted – the scales on the fibers have locked together – it’s very hard to reverse the shrinkage. The wool, in this instance, becomes stiff and loses its stretch. The wear can be permanent, you can soak and gently stretch it, but the fabric might not fit or grow back the way it was.
If you’re dealing with garments that have heavy shrinkage and felting, you may be better off reusing the material than trying to remake it.
Using Procedures Such as Soaking In Wool Conditioner Solution and Gently Stretching.
As previously noted, a wool conditioner solution can help soften the fibres and allow for easy stretching. This method works if the wool has only shrunk slightly and should be paired with a careful reshaping process.
How To Restore Minor Shrinkage Step By Step.
- Get the Washing Solution: Place a wool-friendly conditioner or a mild wool detergent in a basin of lukewarm water.
- Soak the Garment: Place the garment in the water and let it soak for 20–30 minutes. This will soften the fabric.
- To Carefully Stretch Wool: Once the clothing is soaked, pull the garment out and begin to gently stretch the wool. Don’t rush and don’t push too hard. Stretch the fabric in all directions (length, width) to even out the stretch.
- Dry the Garment Flat: Put the clothing flat on a towel and fold it back to its original size. Don’t wring or flex it too much, because that will cause the shape to warp.
This will help to bring back some shrinkage, but it’s worth remembering that this may not be possible if the wool has felted significantly.
How to Handle the Tears and Turn the Dress Inside Out
Not all shrinkage can be reversed, so sometimes you just go with it and use the clothing differently. If the wool has greatly reduced in size or felted, trying to shrink it back to its original size is time-consuming and often damaging. In such instances, consider the following options:
- Use the Fabric to make Something New: Rather than trying to repurpose the garment, create something new from the fabric. A ripped-up woollen sweater, for example, can be transformed into mittens, a hat, or even a scarf. The thick, felted wool is very practical for knitting.
- Make Small Things Out of it: If you no longer can wear the item, consider using the fabric in a different area, like home decor (like a cushion cover or table runner), or as a foundation for quilting.
- Create a New Pattern: If you’re a master seamstress, you may want to change the pattern on the clothing so that it is bigger or more flexible. One could use a felted sweater to create a new design in response to the new cloth.
When restoration isn’t an option, reusing or recycling the cloth is a sustainable solution.
6. Long-Term Ways to Maintain Wool Clothing.
To stop shrinkage before it starts is always the smart thing to do. It is possible to maintain wool clothing long-term without repairs such as those discussed above. You can keep the fabric’s inherent elasticity, smoothness, and form, provided you care for it well.
Proper Care To Avoid Distortion or Pests.
Wool clothes are delicate, and damaged garments can be permanently destroyed if not properly stored. Termites and other insects attack woollen textiles, for example. Here are some recommendations on how to store wool clothes safely:
- Wool Garments Should Be Stored Dry: Wool should be kept dry, cool, and out of direct sunlight and moisture. Store wool away from dampness (in a basement or attic), which promotes felting and mold.
- Use Garment Bags: In order to shield wool garments from dust, dirt, and insects, store them in airy garment bags. This will keep moths and other insects from destroying the fabric.
- Cedar or Moth Repellents: Moths love wool, so treat your clothes with natural moth repellents such as cedarwood or lavender sachets. These will ward off pests and keep the fabric in good condition.
Reducing Washing Time by Exhuming Clothing.
If wool clothes are washed frequently enough, they tend to be worn down very quickly. Overwashing with hot water or harsh detergents causes shrinkage and creases. Rather, let wool pieces air-dry to avoid regular washing.
- Dry Wool Garments: Hang wool clothes in a well-ventilated area after use to let the odours and moisture escape. It will preserve the wool and save you from frequent washing.
- Spot Clean For Small Stains: Spot-clean wool garments if there are minor stains or spills, do not wash it completely. : Apply wool-based cleaner to a damp cloth, gently rub at the stain and allow it to dry.
Spot-Clean for Small Marks instead of Full Washes
When wool clothes get a few little spots, don’t throw them in the washer. Spot cleaning is a gentle cleaner which prevents shrinkage and retains the wool’s natural sheen.
- Blot, Never Scrub: If the wool is stained, blot the area using a clean towel or sponge. Never rub the fibres too much as it can cause them to wiggle and feel.
- Apply Wool-Safe Stain Remover: Select a wool-safe stain remover or mild detergent to clean the stain. You must test the product on a small portion of the fabric first so that it does not damage it.
- Flat Dry: When you clean, iron the garment back into shape and allow it to dry flat. Avoid hanging wool items on the line, which will stretch and warp.
Dhanya Nair is a fabric Lover and a mom. She offers a unique perspective on the intricacies and history of fabric and specializes in bringing the unique narratives of textiles to life.