I. Introduction
In the worlds of fashion and home décor, linen is a rising star in sustainability. Fashionable for its classic beauty, breathability and versatility, it is now also powerfully, purposefully sustainable. As consumers and industry alike move towards a more holistic sense of environmental accountability and brands scramble to develop increasingly eco-friendly product lines, the interest in recycled, reused and repurposed fabrics has skyrocketed. Linen is one of the most easily recyclable fabrics and most of all, it is ideal for a closed-loop lifecycle.
Produced from the fibers of the flax plant, one of the most ancient and eco-friendly textiles in human history, linen requires less water to grow than cotton, little to no pesticides, and even grows in poor quality soil. The manufacturing process can be low-impact, particularly if the processing is done mechanically without harsh chemical treatment. It is also a strong and naturally biodegradable fabric. These characteristics make it a superstar of sustainable design.
But what happens after the first use is over?
We make an effort to be as sustainable as we can in production, but if a material is simply going to be thrown away at the end of its lifecycle, there’s little benefit to using it. The recycling and repurposing of fabrics has become a necessary solution to some of the negative environmental impact and contribution to textile waste in the fashion and home goods industries. The over 92 million tonnes of textile waste produced every year globally is all fabrics that need to be recycled and reused, so textiles must be manufactured, selected and designed with a longer life cycle in mind. Linen is not only sustainable in its growth and production, but also in its qualities and characteristics making it a good option for recycling and repurposing once its initial use has been reached.
In this article, we take a deep dive into that second use—into the afterlife of linen—and show just how it is recycled and repurposed for sustainability. From large-scale industrial recycling to at-home reuse and alteration, from brand-led innovations to grassroots artisan projects, we explore the many ways linen can and does continue to live long after it has fulfilled its first purpose. We also take a look at the challenges and possibilities of linen recycling as well as the role of the consumer in its circular life.
II. What Makes Linen Ideal for Recycling
Linen’s recyclability and upcycling versatility is no happy accident—it is the direct result of key botanical and structural traits of the flax plant and the manufacturing methods that work best with it. Let’s explore exactly why and how linen is one of the most recyclable and repurposable materials available.
1. Natural Fiber Structure: Strong, Long Flax Fibers
Made from the bast fibers of the flax plant in its stem instead of its seeds, linen fibers are long, strong and naturally smooth in texture. This is why linen is so durable and crisp to the touch. Compared to cotton, flax fibers are two or three times longer, giving the material much more tensile strength and fabric durability.
Textile recycling often works through mechanical systems where textiles are shredded and ground into fiber pulp to be spun again into yarn. This is why longer and stronger fibers like flax survive textile recycling better than shorter-staple crops, resulting in higher quality recycled yarn. The fabric will degrade slightly with each recycle, but linen retains more of its original character and strength over multiple cycles.
The fibers also don’t need chemical reinforcements or a synthetic backing to keep their structure. Linen does not need to be stabilized with polyester or plastic additives to make it stronger. This means that there is less of a need for chemical treatment or coatings that would complicate the recycling process.
2. Biodegradability and Low Chemical Processing
One hundred percent biodegradable in its natural form (untreated with synthetic dyes or chemical coatings), linen is one of the few textiles that can actually safely return to nature without harming the environment. While biodegradability itself is not a component of recyclability, it is an essential component of a sustainable end-of-life plan for the fabric—whether it is composting, recycling or repurposing.
In addition, linen is often processed with far fewer chemicals than other textiles like viscose or polyester. Traditional linen processing in Europe in particular is known for being less chemical-intensive, with mechanical retting, scutching, and spinning that help to keep the flax fibers as close to their natural state as possible. Fewer chemicals means cleaner recycled fibers that are easier to sort, less contamination in closed-loop systems, and simpler upcycling and DIY repurposing for the consumer.
Chemical simplicity also means there are no skin-irritating residues to worry about or specialized tools needed to modify fabric products. Consumers are more likely to reuse and repurpose linen goods for around the home or in their wardrobes, leading to its practical second-life potential.
3. Durability: Retains Quality Over Time
Durability is another key quality that makes linen ideal for reuse. Linen does not pill, it holds its shape well, and it actually gets softer and more supple with every wash. Even garments or home textiles that have been in use for some time are often in excellent usable condition.
The high quality of old linen makes it an excellent material for a broad range of second-life applications. While many fabrics may start to break down after the first life cycle, old linen can be cut and re-sewn to a new purpose without losing strength, quality or appeal. An aged linen curtain with faded dye can be re-cut into kitchen towels, cushion covers, patchwork garments with a vintage vibe, or other second life projects.
The wear-resistance of the fabric also means that linen garments used for repurposing projects do not need heavy reinforcement. Old linen is sturdy enough in its construction that it can be used for bags, upholstery linings, clothing accents and more. This longevity of the fiber further reduces the need for virgin textile production and encourages a use-it-again mentality in both fashion and households.
4. Fewer Synthetic Blends Compared to Other Fabrics
In contrast to many mainstream textiles that are often blended with polyester or spandex to add stretch or reduce cost, linen is usually sold as pure or nearly 100% natural fabric. This is significant because blended fabrics are notoriously hard to recycle. Mixed materials require different processing techniques, recycling systems, and processing temperatures. A polyester-cotton blend for example contaminates sorting systems with plastic, degrades fiber quality and sometimes makes it impossible or uneconomical to recycle.
Pure linen, or linen with another natural fiber like cotton or hemp, is far easier to process and recycle because the combinations can often be processed together or separated with minimal effort. Since linen is often marketed as a premium natural or sustainable textile, producers and consumers alike are more likely to avoid synthetics, whether in the weave or in dyes and finishes.
This purity also leaves the door open for future recycling developments in industrial composting and chemical recycling, both of which face an uphill battle against synthetic contamination. It also helps with more responsible end-of-life processing on the consumer end. A person wishing to donate or repurpose their old linen shirt has less to worry about when it comes to fiber complexity sabotaging their efforts.
III. Industrial Recycling of Linen Fabric
Home repurposing and small scale reuse have been the preferred methods of linen renewal for a long time. However, as concerns mount over the environmental burden of the fashion and textiles industry, there is a new emphasis on large-scale, industrial textile recycling. The development of reliable, technically sound methods for mechanically and chemically recycling linen would help both with reducing landfill and diverting waste from the life cycle, as well as with replacing virgin sources with regenerated material.
A. Mechanical Recycling
Mechanical recycling of linen is the most widespread form of industrial recycling today, being largely available in Europe and Japan where textile recycling systems are in place. This type of recycling involves reprocessing post-consumer or post-industrial textile waste back into fibre material, without changing the chemical composition of the original material.
Cutting and shredding into fiber pulp
Mechanical recycling starts with post-industrial waste from fabric factories or cutting rooms, or with post-consumer waste from donated or used linen garments, household linens, or industrial work clothes. The items are sorted according to fibre composition, blend ratio, and quality, with pure linen being kept separate from mixed-fibre textiles. Then, it is cut into smaller pieces and shredded into a fibrous pulp, which can be seen as the raw form of flax, suitable for spinning into yarn.
Being a naturally hardy fibre, linen endures the shredding process better than most other textiles, which makes it well-suited for mechanical recycling. There are naturally weaker, frayed or stained areas in old linen materials, but these too will be discarded or broken down in the shredding process, which shortens all fibres by default.
Re-spinning into yarns for new textiles
The resulting fibre pulp is carded and spun into new yarns, which in turn become fabrics for new products. Recycled linen yarns are typically not used for high-end fashion garments, but are well-suited for workwear, home textiles, upholstery fabrics, or denims-style products. Recycled linen can be combined with virgin flax or cotton fibre in a blend to improve tensile strength and weaving quality.
There are a few manufacturers in the EU that now work with recycled linen yarns in their production cycle, mostly in the home furnishing and hotel trade. This way, hotels and resorts can, for example, recycle used linen bed sheets into new fabric for tablecloths, chair or sofa covers, napkins, or even bed linens themselves. That is an example of a circular economy on a relatively local level.
Limitations: fiber shortening and quality loss
The primary limitation of mechanical recycling is that the fibre is cut shorter each time it is shredded and re-spun, which weakens the resulting textiles with each cycle. There is also a loss of colour integrity and vibrancy when mixing dyed textiles that were not properly sorted by colour, which can make recycled linen less attractive for fashion or interior design.
Mechanical recycling is still a low-impact, low-barrier method, however, and especially where the infrastructure for sorting and processing is already in place (such as in parts of Europe or Japan). It is likely to play a major role in industrial-scale recycling of linen for the foreseeable future.
B. Chemical Recycling (Emerging technologies)
Chemical recycling of linen has been under development for several years, and though not yet available at scale for textiles, it represents a new and exciting field. As a newer technology, chemical recycling offers the possibility of truly fibre-to-fibre textile recycling, with much less degradation than is seen in mechanical recycling.
Breakdown of cellulose into usable base materials
Chemical recycling is a process by which cellulose fibres (such as linen, cotton, or lyocell) are broken down to the molecular level and reformed into new material with little to no degradation in quality. Chemically recycled linen could therefore be used over and over in a truly closed-loop system. This process works very similarly to the viscose or lyocell production process, but in this case the cellulose is being recovered from used textiles, rather than extracted from plants.
The process involves dissolving the fibre in a solution with enzymes or solvents, which turns it into a cellulose-rich, fibre-less liquid. This solution is then purified, filtered, and regenerated into new filaments which are spun into yarn. The regenerated fibres retain all the softness, strength and ecological benefits of the original linen, and are indistinguishable from virgin flax fibres in terms of chemical properties.
Challenges: energy, cost, specialized infrastructure
Chemical recycling remains a more costly, energy-intensive process with multiple barriers:
Enzymatic treatments and solvent solutions, plus the need for airtight filtration systems, lead to high ecological and financial overhead.
Solvent recovery systems must be recyclable and airtight, in order to prevent the generation of toxic byproducts.
Chemical recycling requires specialized machinery, which only exists in a handful of pilot factories worldwide.
Separate collection and sorting of linen from blended materials must be performed in order to avoid contamination with synthetic or non-cellulosic fibres.
Existing facilities are mainly geared towards cotton or blended, cellulosic textiles. However, as flax-based recycling becomes a more popular topic (especially in its native Europe), the development of flax-specific systems is likely to accelerate.
Chemical Recycling of Linen: Promising Developments in Closed Loop Systems
Companies like Renewcell or Evrnu are pioneers in the development of circular recycling systems for cellulose-rich fabrics. Their primary focus to date has been cotton, but given the similarity in chemical structure of these fibres, advancements there can be expected to be translated into linen in the near future.
Closed-loop systems — where textiles are continually recycled into the same type of product without loss of quality — are the holy grail of industrial textile recycling. For example, it could theoretically be possible to take a single linen shirt, recycle it, and produce a new shirt, towel, or bedsheet with the resulting fibre, all without any virgin material being added.
It is this model that we should be aiming for in terms of future sustainable textiles, and linen is by chemical makeup the ideal candidate.
C. Blending with other recycled fibers
Mixing and blending with other recycled materials, whether other cellulosic fibres or with synthetics, is also a popular approach to repurposing old linen fabrics.
Combining recycled linen with recycled cotton or synthetics
In practice, recycled linen fibres are often too short to be spun into yarns by themselves. Instead, they can be blended with longer fibres to give a finished textile the desired softness and strength. Recycled cotton is the most popular complement to linen, since the two are so similar in cellulose properties. Blending linen and cotton also provides a more rustic, organic texture than either fibre on its own. In some cases small amounts of recycled polyester may be added for stretch or crease-resistance.
The downside of this approach is that polyester additions (necessary to a degree in many cases) will reduce the biodegradability of the resulting fabric. On the other hand, the hybrid fabrics are more versatile and can be put to use in performance wear or workwear applications that pure linen would be unsuitable for.
Mixing recycled linen with other waste also provides a way to deal with fibre waste on a systemic level, by processing smaller or contaminated batches of recycled linen that would otherwise go unused.
Benefits for product diversity (e.g. hybrid fabrics)
Recycled linen fabrics in blends can be used to make a variety of products:
Fashion:
Shirts, pants, scarves, bags, or other accessories that have a textured, “natural” look
Home textiles:
Rugs, throws, wall coverings, pillowcases
Packaging:
Wraps, bags, textile gift containers or filler
Footwear:
Linings or uppers for shoes or slippers from recycled materials
Mixing other recycled fabrics with linen also expands its use into markets and applications where 100% virgin flax would otherwise be unfeasible or cost-prohibitive.
IV. Creative and Commercial Repurposing
Creative and artisan reuse of linen is a somewhat less industrial, more boutique area of recycling and repurposing. Linen excels in this form of second life reuse due to its strength, its classic, attractive texture, and its aesthetic versatility.
A. Home and Artisan Uses
Old linen fabric finding second life in home uses and artisan crafts has a long tradition, especially in European households, where linen has been a valuable textile for generations. The durability, softness and heft of old linen make it ideal for repurposing into items that can continue serving a useful function long after the original clothing, home furnishing or linen has reached the end of its initial life.
Old linen turned into napkins, coasters and table runners
Used tablecloths, curtains, and shirts can be easily repurposed with a simple cut and hem into practical, handmade kitchen items. Napkins and coasters made from old linen add an artisanal, rustic charm to any dining table. Table runners made from leftover curtains or sheets can be customized with lace, frayed edges, or embroidery, and become a seasonal or year-round table centerpiece.
Upcycled curtains, pillowcases and quilts
Faded or stained linen curtains can be cut into pillowcases, potholders, or even quilt patches. Doing so not only breathes new life into the fabric that otherwise might have ended up in the landfill, but it also adds a cozy, nostalgic quality to home décor. Artisans will also use scraps to create multi-textured quilts with the natural tones and aesthetics of patchwork.
Embroidery, patchwork and DIY Crafts
Finally, the tight weave and sturdiness of linen make it one of the best materials for embroidery. Repurposed linen can serve as a substrate for hand-stitched art, customized monograms, or patchwork.
In DIY and crafts circles, it is used for:
Lavender sachets
Book covers
Bunting or wall hangings
Reusable gift wraps (furoshiki-style)
Repurposing a household or artisan level not only encourages a more environmentally friendly lifestyle, but also a more culturally rich one, as new objects blend sustainability with art and storytelling.
B. Fashion Industry Innovations
Repurposing of linen into new products is not limited to home uses or artisan crafts, as many fashion designers, especially those associated with slow fashion, have also started using second-life linen as a design element and aesthetic.
Brands designing patchwork garments and accessories
One popular trend is to reclaim post-consumer linen garments and then cut them into separate pieces for new products. Jackets, bags, skirts, and hats made from a patchwork of linen textures and shades are a perfect way to express individuality, while saving pre-existing waste from the landfill. The irregularity and mismatchedness in this kind of work are part of its appeal, as it is less a flaw and more a mark of handcrafted authenticity.
Reworking post-consumer linen into new collections
Designers operating take-back systems, or simply buying second-hand linen, also create upcycled fashion collections from time to time. Oversized tunics, caftans, or unisex shirts made from deconstructed curtains or vintage sheets become a canvas for designers to tell a story with their clothing, by citing the origin of the linen or the inspiration for the upcycle.
Zero-waste pattern cutting and modular design
On a more technical level, some designers are reclaiming linen remnants from factory cutting rooms and designing garments to fit a modular system. By working with square or rectangular cuts (eliminating fabric waste from the beginning), designers can create multi-purpose items such as scarves that can double as tops, aprons that double as bags, and so on. Modular pieces also bring out the flexibility and multiplicity of uses in linen as a textile, which makes it so adaptable to everyday life.
C. Industrial and Commercial Applications
Repurposed linen is also being used on an industrial scale in non-textile sectors, often with a dual purpose of functionality and sustainability.
Repurposed linen for insulation, packing material, upholstery backing
Shredded linen is being used as an eco-friendly alternative to fill padding in shipping or furniture assembly, in place of synthetic foams or plastic. The breathability and fire-resistance of the material make it a safe and effective replacement for these materials, and as a layering material (compressed in sheets or pellets) it can also be used to produce insulation for housing or furniture.
Use in automotive or construction industries (as reinforcement fibers)
In industrial-scale applications, flax fibres (including recycled linen fibre) are also being used in biocomposite applications for automotive and construction industries. These fibre-reinforced materials are lighter, stronger and completely renewable, and can be used in the production of panels, dashboards, or flooring.
Functional applications like these may not be as glamorous as garments or crafts, but they do increase the impact and lifespan of linen fibre significantly by diverting it from landfill and keeping it in productive use.
V. Linen Waste Collection and Sorting
If the aforementioned mechanical, chemical, and creative recycling methods are to have any hope of scaling up, they must all begin with an essential first step. That is, having access to an ample and effective waste collection and sorting infrastructure through which linen and other post-consumer textiles are directed to the correct recovery channel.
Sorting Textile Waste by Composition and Recycling Potential
As a starting point, most textile waste is unsorted by fiber content and type, as a result of being thrown together in landfills, incinerators, charity bags, donation bins, etc. However, since 100% linen performs so differently than blended or synthetic fabrics, it is important that linen waste be clearly separated from other textiles to avoid contamination and “downstream sorting” (sorting at the recovery facility). Of course, that also requires knowing and having access to which sorting and recycling facilities accept linen.
Sort Your Own Linen Waste At Home
Consumers and households also have a role to play, such as by setting up a textile recycling system at home, and cleaning, cutting, and sorting their own worn-out linen from other fabrics.
Sorting for Recyclability or Reuse
The sorting process itself can also be broken down by the potential for reuse vs. recyclability.
Materials that are completely worn, stained, or otherwise too low-quality for secondhand markets should be sent for mechanical recycling and fiber recovery. This includes recycled fiber production, as well as landfill, composting, and energy-from-waste.
Pure, natural linen is recyclable, which makes it especially important to sort away from synthetics (polyester, nylon, etc.)
Linen can also be further separated into higher or lower quality grades. Designers looking for luxury linen, for example, should clearly communicate this to recyclers/sorters at the beginning of the process, or find those who are already experienced in this area.
Role of Textile Recycling Organizations and Sorters
Textile recycling companies or sorting houses are organizations that serve as the first line of entry for all kinds of post-consumer waste, donations, and consignments.
After textiles arrive at one of their collection or sorting facilities, trained employees sort items by:
Cleaning and cutting items
Sorting by composition (100% linen vs. blends or synthetics)
Deciding whether an item is better for reuse, resale, or recycling
Communicating with brand and brand managers about their specific needs (for resale, branding, closed-loop recycling, etc.)
Sorting by wearability vs. recycling value
As part of this process, most textile recycling companies have established criteria for determining whether a used item is fit for resale or reuse, or whether it will be more appropriately recycled or downcycled. This generally comes down to level of wear, stains, odors, or missing components, but companies can also build “recycled content thresholds” into their operations by requiring a minimum percentage of, say, linen (60% minimum) in an item before accepting it for resale.
Partnering with Brands and Retailers
In recent years, many textile recycling organizations have worked hard to build closer relationships with specific fashion brands and retailers, especially as the industry has shown more commitment to closed-loop recycling or circular production.
Recyclers can partner with brands in several ways, including:
Brand take-back programs, in which consumers return used garments directly to the store or via mail
Brand sorting, in which a retailer/brand ships its used or post-consumer textiles to a recycler with guidelines for how to process and sort those items
Mixed textile sorting, for example by large retailers (often general sorting with some specialization into denim, T-shirts, activewear, etc. ).
Labeling, Fiber Analysis and Sorting Technology (e.g., Infrared Scanning)
As the global textile waste mountain continues to grow, manual sorting of textiles is becoming increasingly automated and technology-based.
Label reading and barcoding
Simple barcode systems and scanners can now be used at scale to identify specific brands, product names, and even fabric content. There are even a few companies experimenting with digital labels and QR codes (a type of matrix barcode) that can be printed on garment tags to communicate detailed information about each product.
Near-Infrared (NIR) scanning
A major recent advancement in textile waste sorting is near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR). This technology can read the chemical composition of a material (without touching it), and categorize it by material type. Machines equipped with NIR sensors can process tons of textiles per day, sorting into categories like cotton, polyester, viscose, wool, nylon, elastane, spandex, and of course, linen.
By using NIR scanning for sorting, recyclers can quickly and accurately identify what is pure linen vs. blends, synthetics, etc. This also works on fabric scraps and fibers for which there is no label or other traceable information. Finally, NIR scanning is critical for identifying the exact fiber content of a material, such as the percentage of linen in a linen-cotton blend.
Challenges of Blends and Contaminants
Of course, some types of textile waste are more difficult to sort than others, especially when materials are blended at similar percentages (e.g., 50% cotton/50% linen) or when labels are missing or cannot be scanned. Another issue is chemical treatments, which can still be found in dyed, coated, or finished textiles, especially blended synthetic fabrics. Special equipment and trained technicians will continue to be required for the most challenging and less common types of textile waste.
VI. The Role of Consumers in Linen Recycling
In addition to the industrial machinery, brands and organizations responsible for most of the logistics of linen recycling, consumers have many opportunities to support and even influence the process. From disposal decisions at home to DIY reuse and purchasing choices in stores.
The following are some of the most important things that consumers can do to help keep linen in circular systems:
A. Responsible Disposal
The question “toss or reuse?”
is one that consumers must face whenever they discard or consider discarding any product, and linen is no exception. While some end-of-life options for textiles are better than others, there is a significant environmental and sustainability advantage to avoiding landfills and incinerators whenever possible.
Donate vs. Discard
One of the most accessible options for consumers to divert used linen textiles from landfill is to donate them to charity shops, thrift stores, shelters, or textile banks. Provided the items are still wearable or useful (sheets, curtains, tablecloths, etc. ), this is one of the easiest ways to keep used linen in circulation.
Eligibility for donation can depend on several factors, but in general it is better to donate than to discard.
Items can be:
Clean and dry
Free from severe stains or odors
Untorn, undamaged, or still wearable (or at least in presentable condition)
Clearly labeled (helps with downstream sorting)
To donate, consumers can either drop off items at a local charity, shelter, or textile bank, or mail them via curbside pick-up programs, textile recycling apps, or national charities (such as Goodwill, Salvation Army, or Oxfam).
The donated textiles can then be resold in secondhand shops or donated to individuals in need. Some unwanted clothing will still end up in landfill after donation, but the practice supports a critical secondhand market for resource conservation.
Textile Take-Back Programs
Another related form of textile recycling is for companies or brands to collect used or post-consumer textiles from their customers and either recycle them themselves or sell them to third-party recyclers for processing. Many clothing brands have established take-back programs and reverse logistics systems that allow consumers to return or consign used garments to be resold, recycled, or reused.
Of particular interest to natural fiber recycling and linen is partnering with brands that already have established take-back programs and sell to recyclers that specialize in natural fiber sorting and processing. For linen clothing, a closed-loop circular system can be built from point-of-sale to end-of-life and back again.
Composting Pure, Untreated Linen at Home
Untreated, 100% linen can be composted in the home, which makes it a “zero waste” option for worn out or disposable items. Since linen is made from a cellulose-based plant material, it will break down naturally in a composting system and return its valuable nutrients to the soil.
Cut into small strips or pieces
Not synthetically treated or coated
Not mixed with plastic buttons, zippers, or threads
These parameters may vary by home composting system and geographical location.
B. DIY Repurposing Ideas
Another way that consumers can support linen recycling and circularity is by finding ways to reuse and upcycle used textiles themselves, or by buying items made from recycled or upcycled fabrics. DIY reuse is as simple or complex as the creativity of the maker allows.
Cleaning Rags, Pot Holders, and Produce Bags
An easy idea is to turn worn-out or undesirable linen clothing or sheets into cleaning rags, which can replace disposable paper towels, sponges, and microfiber products in the home. Old linen shirts or tablecloths can be cut into rags and used for all manner of household cleaning tasks, offering one of the simplest entry points to textile upcycling.
Other simple projects include:
Pot holders:
Using double layers of linen and heat resistant filling for pot holders.
Produce bags:
Light drawstring pouches for fruit and vegetables, sewn from old pillowcases or shirts.
Drawer sachets:
Small linen pouches filled with dried lavender, cloves, or other scented herbs.
Tote Bags, Accessories, and Garment Transformation
Larger pieces of linen fabric can be turned into reusable market totes or tote bags, or transformed into bag straps, shoulder bags, or crossbody purses.
Accessories like scrunchies, beanies, summer scarves, or sachets can be made from smaller scraps or offcuts. Of course, entire garments or bedding sets can also be upcycled into new products like cushions, curtains, or aprons. These kinds of projects can be as simple or complicated as the DIYer is willing to go, and some of the most elegant and valuable upcycling is achieved by cutting and patchworking together multiple garments or clothing types.
C. Buying Recycled Linen
The final part of consumer engagement in linen recycling, of course, is by purchasing recycled or upcycled products when shopping for new items. For example, consumers can support brands or companies that use recycled linen yarns or fabrics in their products.
Support Brands Using Recycled Linen Yarns/Fabrics
Some of the best and easiest ways to support the recycling and reuse of linen and other natural fibers is to purchase recycled products. This includes everything from towels made from post-consumer linens to patchwork jackets and pants to accessories and bags made from factory floor remnants.
Even though “recycled” is a relatively new area in the fashion industry, there are a growing number of brands committed to this practice, especially for towels, activewear, T-shirts, and other frequently used and machine-washable items.
Look for Transparent Sourcing and Closed-Loop Models
To find the most sustainable and closed-loop options, consumers should look for brands or companies that are transparent about the source of their recycled materials, and ideally are already working with textile recyclers directly. For example, brands that use locally sourced factory floor cuttings or unsold inventory, or partner with local artisans and workshops to reduce transportation emissions and support community livelihoods.
Verify Recycled Content With Labels and Certifications
Certifications help ensure that recycled materials are legitimately recycled and processed responsibly, and include third-party audits. When shopping for recycled or upcycled linen products, some certifications to look for include:
Global Recycled Standard (GRS):
Certifies that the material in the product is recycled and meets GRS environmental and social criteria.
OEKO-TEX Standard 100:
Verifies that the finished product is free from harmful chemicals.
European Flax® and Masters of Linen®:
Certifications that product is made with flax grown and processed sustainably in Europe.
VII. Brands and Projects Leading the Way
While many aspects of recycling or repurposing linen are technically possible, brands and designers are the ones taking the most impact-reducing actions. From high-end labels to community-based artisans, these innovators are closing the loop on the production and use of linen, and opening new doors for sustainable design.
Examples of Companies Using Post-Consumer or Recycled Linen
Many new brands and businesses are committing to the task of sourcing post-consumer linen or recycled flax fibers. Companies are using a variety of processes to put recycled or upcycled linen to work, from mechanical recycling of discarded textiles to creative reuse of end-of-life products.
1. Eileen Fisher (USA)
Eileen Fisher has been one of the leaders in the sustainable fashion sector since the beginning of the movement. The company has a Renew program that gathers used garments (including linen) and resells, repairs, or upcycles them for use in new products. Products that are not resold to customers are used in a Fisher Found collection, including unique, pieced-together garments and home textiles.
Eileen Fisher’s closed-loop practices show how linen can be well-managed through circular design. The brand’s commitment to transparency and use of natural materials make it an excellent example for others in the textiles sector.
2. Lemaire (France)
This luxury clothing brand is known for its sleek, clean lines. In an effort to experiment with sustainable materials, Lemaire has been working with Japanese textile innovators on using recycled, natural materials, including linen.
The company has produced pieces made of 100% recycled linen-cotton blend that maintain the integrity of their designs.
This is a notable initiative as it shows a willingness on the part of high-end brands to move towards low-impact materials and develop end-products that can satisfy aesthetic and performance expectations using recycled inputs.
3. Coyuchi (USA)
This home textiles brand has committed itself to a closed-loop business model for several years, making “2nd Home Renewed” an intrinsic part of their identity. Through the 2nd Home program, customers can send in old sheets (including 100% linen bedding) for Coyuchi to inspect and refurbish for resale, or use as raw material for their small-batch, limited-edition products.
The company also uses exclusively certified European flax linen, which is important for lending legitimacy to their environmental message. Coyuchi is a major voice for durability and regeneration within the home textiles sector, which is where linen naturally finds its niche due to its longevity.
4. The R Collective (Hong Kong)
The R Collective is a sustainable fashion brand that works with upcycled and deadstock materials from many sources, including high-end fashion brands’ overstock, fabric samples, and offcuts.
Linen is often used in capsule collections that transform these materials into limited-edition, refined, global garments.
The R Collective’s work with luxury textile suppliers and offcut transformations are examples of how all linen (including surplus and deadstock) can be used in a high-end, thoughtful vision of sustainability.
Artisan Collectives, Zero-Waste Designers, and Nonprofits
Artisan groups and zero-waste designers are also having a large impact on repurposing and recycling linen waste in a thoughtful way. By working at small scale, in local contexts, and focusing on handcraft, these projects fit neatly into the slow fashion ethos.
1. Revival by Design (UK)
This upcycling non-profit organization partners with local groups, charities, and companies to collect unwanted textiles in large volumes, including significant quantities of linen from hospitals and hotels, and then upcycles the material into bags, clothing, and home textiles.
Revival by Design also employs a team of local artisans, many from marginalised communities, to do the labor, providing skills training and income to artisans while diverting textiles from landfill.
The model is a great example of social and environmental regeneration meeting zero-waste textile production and local economies.
2. Studio FOLKS (India)
Studio FOLKS makes handmade clothing using salvaged linen stock that is hand-dyed with natural dyes. The brand partners with rural craft communities to create small batches of their classic cuts in seasonal colorways.
Synthetic dyes are avoided by the designers, who focus on letting the original fabric express its beauty and history through a natural color palette.
The celebration of imperfection is key to this sustainable aesthetic.
3. ReClothe (Australia)
ReClothe is an emerging collective and brand that focuses on clothing repair, education, and upcycling, with a special focus on natural textiles, including linen. The group offers workshops teaching members and the general public how to transform old linen garments and scraps into all kinds of items, from home textiles to accessories.
ReClothe also has a donation system for pre-loved linen, which they upcycle into DIY sewing kits for their customers, turning donated items into something new instead of allowing them to enter landfill.
This circular business model is engaging and useful for the public while diverting waste from landfills.
Case Study:
From Tablecloth to Tunic – A Linen Reinvention
A special mention goes to TOAST, a UK-based lifestyle brand that we’ve mentioned before. With a clear commitment to timeless style, textile integrity, and circularity, TOAST found a way to source a large quantity of discontinued and damaged linen tablecloths from their clients in the hospitality sector.
The company then partnered with a local artist-designer collective to chop the tablecloths into modular pattern pieces to create a limited-edition collection of oversized, high-quality linen tunics, relaxed shirts, and drawstring trousers, each with its own unique narrative.
The project emphasized storytelling and transparency, with customers able to trace the origins and life cycle of their tablecloth-to-clothing products. It demonstrated how even highly utilitarian linens can become valuable fashion items with a new story and skilled workmanship.
It also highlights an important aspect of repurposing: not only is it waste management, but design innovation and storytelling and connecting people to products through emotional resonance and cultural value.
VIII. Challenges and Limitations
While there is great energy around linen recycling and reuse right now, there are systemic, technical, and economic barriers to circularity that still have to be addressed. These problems are not necessarily unsolvable but must be recognized and combatted in order for linen to become a truly circular textile.
1. Difficulty Recycling Blended Fabrics
The issue of blended textiles is one of the largest obstacles to progress in linen recycling. While pure linen is relatively simple to upcycle or compost, blends—especially those with synthetics like polyester or spandex—are significantly more difficult to separate and process.
Many garments now on the market have linen as a secondary component mixed with cotton or viscose (for softness) or with elastane (for stretch). When these are not labeled as blends, they are extremely difficult to sort by hand and do not currently fall within the capabilities of most recycling facilities.
Technology for separating blended fibers is still developing and not yet cheap or scalable. Until fiber-to-fiber separation is more widely available, much of the world’s linen-blend textiles will remain trapped as downcycle or waste.
Solution Paths:
Stronger labeling and transparency expectations for brands
Legislation to discourage or prohibit non-recyclable blends
Technical development of solvent- or enzyme-based separation processes
2. Limited Access to Commercial Linen Recycling in Some Regions
The European Union has made significant strides in the field of textile recycling, especially in France, Germany, the Netherlands, and other nations. But outside of Europe, in many cases, infrastructure is lacking to collect, sort, clean, and reuse post-consumer linen.
Textiles are often left out of municipal recycling systems, or they are placed in landfills because the sorting process is too complex. This means that even if consumers are conscientious, the system in their local area may not be set up to support responsible textile disposal.
For example, in the US and much of Asia, textile recycling is mostly limited to a small number of niche players, pilot programs, or charity shops. The potential for mass-scale linen recycling is mostly untapped, limiting the availability of closed-loop systems for companies.
Solution Paths:
Investment in textile recycling at the city and national levels
Policy incentives for circularity within the textiles sector
Addition of textiles as a separate waste stream for municipal collection
3. Mechanical Degradation Over Recycling Cycles
Mechanical recycling, the most common type of recycling, has the inherent disadvantage of degrading the fiber and shortening its useful life. Every time a piece of linen is shredded into fibers, carded into a web, and spun into a new yarn, the resulting fibers will be shorter, weaker, and not as usable.
Because of this, it is not possible to recycle the same linen infinitely. Mechanical recyclers of textiles often have to blend in new fibers to maintain quality and performance.
And while that doesn’t break the loop completely, it does create a dependency on new resources for virgin material and adds the risk of fluctuating prices and availability.
Additionally, recycled linen (especially that which has been mechanically recycled multiple times) can lack the softness, strength, and texture of new linen. This can limit its desirability for consumer-facing applications and its usefulness to lower-tier products like padding, insulation, or industrial textiles.
Solution Paths:
Development of chemical and mechanical hybrid recycling methods
Use of degraded fibers in nonwoven textiles and composites
Design for disassembly to keep shredding and mechanical processes to a minimum
4. Economic Viability for Mass-Scale Recycling
Recycling linen, especially post-consumer material, is not cheap. The cost of collecting, sorting, cleaning, and shredding, and then reprocessing textiles into usable fiber or fabric is often several times higher than producing new linen. This is especially the case when raw flax is still relatively inexpensive to purchase in Europe and Asia.
Because of this, few large-scale recycling facilities for post-consumer linen exist, and brands are largely unwilling to invest in closed-loop production due to volatile prices, limited availability, and technical challenges.
The market for recycled linen is still small and emerging. Without real consumer demand and helpful regulation, many companies lack the incentive to move towards circular systems.
Solution Paths:
Government subsidies or tax credits for using recycled content
Eco-labeling standards that support brands using recycled content
Consumer education to drive demand for recycled textiles
IX. Innovations and Future Outlook
For thousands of years, linen has served as a staple fabric that is both functional and beautiful. But in recent years, it has also become a hotbed of innovation and experimentation as traditional weaving techniques are joined by forward-thinking circular economy and regenerative agriculture practices. At the same time, new recycling technologies are emerging to address the materials that have become the largest source of textile waste.
This age of progress and innovation has not yet solved all of linen’s recyclability challenges. But as sustainability increasingly moves from a fringe to mainstream concern for the global fashion and textile industry, a number of exciting new developments are giving rise to circularity solutions that are more accessible, scalable, transparent, and efficient. Here we highlight just some of these advances and explore how they will drive a new circular future for linen.
1. Developments in Fiber-to-Fiber Recycling
By far the most sustainable approach to textile recycling is fiber-to-fiber, in which old fabric or garments are broken down to their raw material form, ready to be made into new textiles from scratch. For linen, this typically means converting textile waste into a flax-like fiber that can be woven into fabric. While the equipment, infrastructure, and economics for processing linen in this way are still limited, there are reasons for optimism.
The fiber content is getting cleaner, with fewer blended or difficult-to-recycle materials.
New technologies are being developed to break down and regenerate natural cellulosic fibers, including linen.
Consumer-facing collection and brand take-back schemes are being expanded, supporting closed-loop systems.
a. Enzymatic and Chemical Fiber Regeneration
Innovation labs and sustainability-focused textile startups are now designing enzymatic or solvent-based recycling systems that can break down old linen into its cellulose base material. The fibers can then be respun into new linen-like threads to make more fabric. Unlike mechanical recycling processes, chemical or enzymatic technologies do not degrade the underlying fiber structure, meaning the recycled fiber can retain virgin-quality characteristics.
Evrnu’s technology system, for example, is being designed to produce regenerated cellulose from post-consumer textile waste. The brand leverages a non-toxic liquid solvent to dissolve and “unbuild” fibers before rebuilding them into new regenerated materials.
Companies like Renewcell have also developed processes to recycle cotton into regenerated fibers. While the main focus of these technologies has been on cellulosic cotton, Renewcell has stated an intention to expand into other fabrics in the future, such as viscose and potentially linen.
Both chemical and enzymatic recycling systems hold promise to become much more advanced in the near future. As costs come down and infrastructure becomes more widely available, it will soon be possible to recycle post-consumer linen fabrics into virgin-quality fibers in an infinite loop.
b. Application of Lyocell-Type Processes to Linen
In addition to dedicated recycling technologies, there is also some potential to leverage existing closed-loop production models for linen fibers. The most popular of these is the TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber, which dissolves wood pulp in a non-toxic NMMO solvent to produce a regenerated fiber of extreme softness and strength. The process is closed-loop, with nearly all the solvent recovered and reused.
For linen recycling, a potential model could be the conversion of worn-out linen textiles into flax pulp. This pulp can then be dissolved using a similar NMMO system, and the resulting fabric will have both the sustainability profile of linen and the fabric hand of a regenerated fiber like lyocell.
This process is also more efficient than older methods, using less water, fully recovering the solvents used, and generating no toxic byproducts.
c. Hybrid Recycling Facilities
One of the most important barriers to recycling for linen and other textiles is infrastructure. In most cases, existing textile recycling plants are limited to a single fiber type or must sort and separate blends, significantly adding to cost and process time.
In order to support the growing need for effective recycling facilities, a number of hybrid textile plants are currently being designed that can take in a range of different fiber types including linen, cotton, viscose, as well as common blends with synthetics. These facilities feature more versatile mechanical and chemical sorting and separating systems that can handle mixed textiles with a higher level of synthetic content.
We are likely to see a much more robust future system of post-consumer take-back and closed-loop recycling for linen as this equipment is rolled out and as newer, cleaner chemistry and highly-targeted recycling science becomes more scalable.
2. Growth of Closed-Loop Systems and Take-Back Schemes
One of the most exciting and profound shifts we’re seeing in sustainable textile management is the rise of closed-loop business models. In these systems, fashion brands commit to “taking back” the product they sell and reintegrating it into new product lines via repair, remanufacture, recycling, or other regenerative means.
These systems represent a fundamental inversion of the existing linear model of “make, use, discard” that has caused so much damage in the fashion industry.
a. Brand-Led Take-Back Programs
A number of fashion brands including Patagonia, Stella McCartney, Eileen Fisher, and Coyuchi have long-standing take-back programs that collect worn clothing or bedding and either find a way to regenerate it into new items, or recycle the fibers to be used again. Some of these programs will take in used products regardless of condition, while others ask the consumer to ensure the item is clean and patchable.
This model has an enormous impact on the recyclability and circular potential of linen because of the fabric’s durability. Linen can typically withstand years of wear and tear before it becomes unusable, while linen repairs and patches are often both functional and decorative.
An increasing number of brands are specifically targeting linen products for their circular systems.
Increased consumer education and participation in take-back schemes could help to close the production loop, reduce virgin resource use, and create stronger feedback loops around product design and longevity.
b. Localized Circular Loops
In some regions and countries, these circular loops can become quite localized. This is especially true in urban areas or cities with strong community cultures around repair, thrift, and textile recycling. In this model, a local brand or cooperative will collect used linen textiles from community donors and then use local facilities to regenerate those textiles back into handmade products for the same community to use and enjoy.
This system has the added benefits of reducing transportation and emissions, improving trust, and retaining value within the local economy.
c. Repair and Remake Services
Repair services are an increasingly common accompaniment to circular fashion business models. Allowing consumers to extend the life of their garments can lead to lower overall textile waste as well as help promote a new relationship to our clothes where they are valued as long-term companions. Some brands are also offering “remake” services where consumers can send in a used linen item to be redesigned or re-tailored into a completely new product.
Taken together, these models both reduce waste and help keep materials in circulation, but they also create a mindset shift in how we view our clothes and possessions.
3. Digitally Tracked Circular Supply Chains
One of the biggest issues holding back textile recycling today is the lack of supply chain transparency and traceability. As a result, textile recyclers are often unaware of exactly what a fabric contains, where it was grown and manufactured, and how. This often leads to contamination, mis-sorting, and ultimately wasted material. But in the near future, digitally tracking garments through their lifecycle will embed transparency directly into a product.
a. Blockchain for Transparency
Blockchain technology provides an immutable and transparent method to digitally track a textile’s full lifecycle. From the moment a piece of flax fiber is harvested, through the entire supply chain, all the way to the consumer, each exchange can be recorded on a tamper-proof distributed ledger.
This system would allow brands, recyclers, and consumers to:
Verify claimed fiber content (e.g. 100% linen vs. linen-polyester blend)
Trace the dyeing and other processing steps
Track where the item has been owned and used over its lifetime
Authenticate a used product for resale or recycling purposes
The ability to digitally track an item through blockchain or other means will also give recyclers full confidence in its recyclability and material provenance. Brands who choose to use these systems can create better product circularity and reduce waste.
b. RFID and Digital Product Passports
Another exciting development is the addition of RFID chips or QR codes that are embedded in a product label and contain information about the textile, including its fiber content, care instructions, and recycling recommendations. These chips can be scanned at sorting facilities or take-back collection points, and with the right data set, the tags could help automate textile sorting and direct linen textiles to the proper recycling path.
Governments and regional bodies like the European Commission are starting to require product-level data on these labels, commonly referred to as Digital Product Passports (DPPs). It is expected that in the near future, this will become an industry standard practice and that items made from pure linen (especially premium or sustainability-focused brands) will be early adopters of these traceability systems.
4. Materials Innovation and Circular Design Thinking
Finally, the ways we design with linen are beginning to shift as well. Design for disassembly and circularity are no longer an afterthought to be addressed at the end of the product’s lifecycle. Instead, they are increasingly becoming an integral part of the design process.
Circular design begins with the raw materials and sourcing, but it continues through how a product is cared for and how long it lasts.
a. Designing for Disassembly
To ensure that a garment or textile can be easily recycled or composted at the end of its lifecycle, designers are opting for modular or mono-material construction.
For linen, this means:
Opting for 100% linen thread instead of polyester thread for stitching
Choosing natural buttons or fasteners over plastic or metal
Limiting the use of glue or interfacing in construction
By committing to simple and natural construction, circular design helps eliminate contamination and makes recycling and composting easier. As well, it creates a design language that centers around integrity and simplicity.
b. Regenerative Agriculture for Flax Cultivation
On the raw materials side, there is also a rapidly growing movement to farm flax using regenerative agriculture techniques. Regenerative practices like no-till and crop rotation not only restore soil health but also sequester carbon, support biodiversity, and produce healthier flax fiber. By pairing this approach with circular fiber-to-fiber recycling, brands are able to create a textile system that is not only circular, but actually climate-positive.
Companies such as Libeco and Flax Project in Europe are both sourcing regenerative flax as a key ingredient for future circular linen fabrics.
X. Final Thoughts
Linen has been so widely used and celebrated as a beautiful, practical, and sustainable textile because of its durability, low environmental impact in production, and full biodegradability. But what elevates linen even further into a truly next-generation fiber is its recyclability and repurposing potential. The innovations highlighted in this article are not only driving towards cleaner, more scalable, and more circular linen materials and systems, but they are also helping to sustain thousands of years of human tradition. Mending, patching, repairing, remaking, and reimagining the fabric we love is a practice that we can all help to keep alive.
Producers, Brands, and Recyclers
Fashion and textile producers and brands have a collective role to play in supporting linen recyclability. By committing to the use of recyclable, clean, mono-materials wherever possible, they can create a sustainable end-of-life pathway for products that have been designed for disassembly. Brands that commit to setting up take-back systems for their products are even better positioned to ensure a closed-loop system for textile circularity.
Recyclers and innovators must also continue to research and develop new systems for breaking down and regenerating linen and other natural fibers. By making recycling faster, cheaper, and more efficient, this industry will be able to meet growing demand as both more producers and consumers demand circular solutions.
Government and Policymakers
Government bodies and policymakers can support circularity and linen recyclability in a number of ways. The most effective may be to create financial incentives for sustainable circular practices, while implementing bans or taxes on blended textiles that cannot be recycled and fabrics that have been dyed with harmful chemicals.
Consumers and Individuals
Consumers have perhaps the most important role to play of all. As the end-point of a global textile system that has for too long prioritized disposability, consumers have the power not just at the point of purchase, but at home, in the ways they use, dispose of, and value their fabrics. The textiles we live with are part of our daily lives in a more intimate way than most products. This power, in turn, comes with responsibility. Consumers must demand greater transparency and lower impact from producers and brands, while also ensuring the products they buy are used for as long as possible.
Call to Action: Support Recycled Linen Products and Repurpose What You Already Own
You do not need to be an innovator or an expert on zero-waste to have an impact. As a consumer or individual, you can support circular linen systems today in a number of ways. You can start by simply choosing to buy recycled or upcycled linen products, or even better, repairing and reusing the linen you already own. You can donate or resell used linen items instead of throwing them away. You can repurpose linen at home, either by cutting up old shirts for napkins or turning worn linens into tote bags.
In the future, as the circular recycling infrastructure continues to improve and more brands implement take-back systems, there will be more choice and greater impact in consumer-driven linen circularity.
In the meantime, you can:
Buy recycled or upcycled linen products
Donate or resell used linen items instead of discarding them
Repurpose linen at home (napkins, tote bags, etc)
Choose pure linen over synthetic-infused fabrics
Support brands that publicly certify their supply chain transparency and recycling efforts
100% Linen Textiles
When a 100% linen item has finally reached the end of its life and is ready to be discarded, then that item can be truly considered “zero waste” by composting it. If you have access to a home composting system or a municipal composting system in your community, then home composting of linen products is a low-barrier and easy way to ensure that your textiles never end up as landfill waste.
