Introduction
Silk has long been valued as a fabric that feels soft on the skin, looks elegant and has certain qualities. Lingerie is the ideal item of clothing for transparent silk as it has the same natural quality and additional virtues. Intimates need to be made of something that feels good against the skin, breaths easily and has a natural sheen that goes with the special properties of the garment itself. The type of silk fabric you choose for lingerie can have influence on the comfort for the wearer as well as the longevity of the garment.
In this article, we present the different types of silk fabrics suitable for underwear, an analysis of the substance and the features, offering advice on choosing the right silk, sewing techniques, care and maintenance so that your underwear stays beautiful and comfortable for years to follow.
Understanding Silk for Lingerie
Properties of Silk
Silk is a natural protein fibre made by silkworms that has offered lingerie wearers the best of both worlds.
Softness: Silk is incredibly soft to the touch, providing unparalleled comfort against the skin.
Breathability: Silk, thanks to its natural fiber porosity, allows excellent air circulation thereby helping to keep the wearer cool in summer and warm in winter.
Moisture-Wicking: Silk absorbs up to 30 per cent of its weight in water without feeling wet. It somehow absorbs and evaporates moisture. That’s why silk underwear was the best-selling product in Sex and the It needed to be forgiving. Sex is messy.
Hypoallergenic: Silk is dust mite-proof, mold-proof and mildew-proof, so it’s a great option for those with hypersensitive or allergy-plagued skin.
Why Silk is Ideal for Lingerie
The unique properties of silk make it a superior fabric choice for lingerie:
Calming Against the Skin: Silk feels smooth to the touch. The friction between fabric and skin is minimised.
Luxe Look: The natural sheen and drape make lingerie look just a bit more luxurious in silk.
Temperature regulation: By tending to be gliding in humidity while allowing evaporation, silk is breathable and draws moisture away from the skin for temperature regulation. It keeps you cool in hot climate and warm in cool climate, thus being the perfect sleeping cloth all year round.
Types of Silk Fabrics Suitable for Lingerie Silk fabrics are usually compared to the human skin with regard to temperature, responsiveness and breathability. Here, we will explain the main kinds of silk and their corresponding lingerie applications.
Some types of silk are more suitable than others for a specific type of lingerie. When considering temperature of the fabric, one should ask themselves the question.
Charmeuse Silk
Characteristics
Shiny Side and Flip Side: Charmeuse silk has a shiny front and a matte back.
‘Light and Draping’: lightweight and draping, this is easy to work with, perfect for floaty clothes.
Softness: Charmeuse is one of the softest silks – and the softest dancer’s costume I ever wore.
Best Uses
Slips: The drapability and silky feel of charmeuse make it ideal for slips that move silky beneath clothing.
Camisole: Charmeuse silk camisoles are very silky next to the skin and linger as a luxurious base layer.
Nightgowns: Charmeuse silk is sheer and lightweight ‒ yet skinlike ‒ and the nightgowns it has created are a luxurious blend of beauty and comfort.
Crepe de Chine Silk
Characteristics
Touch Me: Crepe de Chine has a lightly textured, matte finish rather than the glossy charmeuse. This is why the Chinese adopted the name.
Lightweight: This silk is lightweight and less shiny, providing a more understated elegance.
Slightly Textured: The subtle texture adds interest and helps reduce the visibility of wrinkles.
Best Uses
Lingerie Sets: Bra and Panties: Crepe de Chine is smooth and silky with matte finish and lightweight feels.
Bras: The slight texture provides a secure fit without compromising comfort.
Panties: Soft and breathable, Crepe de Chine panties are perfect for everyday wear.
Silk Satin
Characteristics
Haute Shine: High gloss translucent silk satin begs to be touched and is synonymous with luxury.
Medium Weight: Slightly heavier than charmeuse, it provides a bit more structure.
Smooth Texture: The silky smooth texture is perfect for intimate garments.
Best Uses
Robes: Silk satin robes offer a luxurious feel and elegant drape, perfect for lounging.
Chemises: The high shine and smooth texture make chemises both glamorous and comfortable.
As for luxury lingerie pieces, silk satin is better.
Silk Georgette
Characteristics
Crinkled Texture: Silk georgette has a very distinct crinkled texture that gives it a lovely visual interest and a touch of sheer…
Sheer, Lightweight The garment made from this fabric is semi-sheer and lightweight, and delicate garments call for this fabric.
Fluid Drape: The fluid drape of georgette enhances its elegance and versatility.
Best Uses
Delicate Lingerie: Silk georgette is perfect for creating delicate and feminine lingerie pieces.
Layering Pieces: Its sheer quality makes it ideal for layering over other lingerie.
Bralettes: The lightweight and textured nature of georgette makes it suitable for soft bralettes.
Silk Chiffon
Characteristics
Sheer: Silk chiffon is sheer and lightweight, offering a flowy and ethereal quality.
Lightweight: This fabric is extremely light and airy, perfect for creating floaty garments.
Flowy: The fluidity of chiffon makes it ideal for garments that require movement.
Best Uses
Silk Chiffon: Silk chiffon is often employed as decorative accents on lingerie pieces, such as pin tucks or shirring smooth lace, adding a touch of elegance.
Overlays: It is perfect for overlays on more opaque fabrics, creating a layered look.
Decorative Elements: Use chiffon for ruffles, bows, and other embellishments on lingerie.
Silk Habotai
Characteristics
Lightweight: Silk habotai is lightweight and smooth, making it comfortable for everyday wear.
Smooth Texture: The smooth texture provides a pleasant feel against the skin.
Affordable: It is far less expensive than other types of silk, which makes it a good choice for project that require lots of yards.
Best Uses
Everyday Lingerie: Habotai is perfect for creating comfortable and practical lingerie for daily use.
Slips: Lightweight and smooth, habotai slips are ideal for layering under clothing.
Comfortable Nightwear: Create cozy nightgowns and pajamas with this versatile fabric.
- Choosing the Right Silk Fabric
Selecting the right silk fabric for lingerie involves considering several factors:
Comfort and Feel
One of the prime purposes of lingerie is comfort; you’re going to be wearing it next to your skin all day, so at the very least you want it to feel nice. The most obvious way to do this is to choose soft fabrics: charmeuse and silk satin are intimate and indulgent, while more understated but equally comfortable options are charmeuse’s subtler cousin, crepe de Chine, and habotai.
Durability and Care
While all types of silk are light and semi-translucent, some are definitely sturdier than others. Crepe de Chine or silk satin garments are longer-lasting than say, charmeuse or chiffon, which are very sensitive and delicate (and you’d better be extremely gentle with them). To help preserve your silk lingerie for a while, you can also use bowl full of warm water to give the piece a hand-washing and then leave it to air dry.
Aesthetic Appeal
Fabric appearance is all-important. Think about the sheen, the texture and the drape of the silk. High-gloss fabrics like charmeuse and satin are suitable for a more luxurious look, while less lustrous fabrics such as Crepe de Chine and georgette give a more subdued, matte appearance.
Price Considerations
Price can vary between types of silk – habotai has a lower price, but charmeuse and satin are more expensive as the longer thread filaments give it a luxurious feel and appearance. It’s a good idea to keep costs in balance with the quality and use you plan for the lingerie.
- Tips for Sewing and Caring for Silk Lingerie
Sewing Tips
Chop: Trim edges with a pair of very sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. A cutting mat will let you snip with more control.
Sewing Needles: Very fine needles meant for silk are best for beginners, such as a size 60/8 or 70/10.
Sewing it: Use silk thread or polyester for sewing silk. Silk thread is equal in weight and flexibility to the silk, while polyester can provide even a better grip.
Stitch Length: Use shorter stitch lengths to prevent puckering and ensure a smooth seam.
Care Instructions
Washing: Hand wash in cold water with a gentle detergent, never wringing or twisting but laying damp on a towel.
To dry: Lay flat to air dry. Don’t put it in the sun, so it doesn’t fade.
Store: Silk lingerie should be stored in a cool, dry location. Never hang very heavy pieces of lingerie because the weight can distort the fabric.
Silk offers the best combination of comfort, elegance and strength for lingerie fabric. Learn what types of silk to use and where, and you’ll be able to make lingerie that looks and feels luxurious. If you’ve ever worn lingerie made from charmeuse, Crepe de Chine or chiffon, then you’ve worn Silk. Charmeuse (or charmeuse satin) was invented in 18th-century France for women’s clothing. It is shiny with a satin face, but each side of the fabric, known as the ‘back’, is equally shiny. That’s because every fibre in the yarn is identical; the ‘back’ was the side that the botanical silk threads were unwound from in the reeling process. Charmeuse is slightly lighter than satin, and good quality charmeuse has a beautiful drape and handle. This fabric is great to use for scoop and low-cut bras, collectively known as balconette bras. Anything that needs to be sheer and shimmering, like shiny ‘jopettes’ (lacy briefs) or a face-framing cami, will look and feel divine in charmeuse. Crepe de Chine, a solid-coloured or printed silk, has a matte or lustrous face. Unlike the botanical silk thread, the yarn used to produce the face and back of the fabric is structured so that it becomes twisted, thereby changing the texture. The result is a fabric with a crinkled, soft appearance as though it’s been dampened before wear.
Refine your lingerie wardrobe with exquisite silk, and enjoy the investment in sheer luxury.
Books and Tutorials
“Sewing Lingerie That Fits” by Karen Morris: A comprehensive guide to sewing custom lingerie.
Making Delicious Bread (1697), by Rebecca Dietillus: this was the most popular of her recipes Books specific to weaving included The Art of Manipulating Fabric (1693) by Colette Wolff and detailed various instruments, threads and silk working techniques.
Online Tutorials: Websites like Craftsy and YouTube offer step-by-step tutorials for sewing silk lingerie.
Online Communities
PatternReview.com: A community for sewing enthusiasts to share projects and reviews.
reddit (r/sewing): Ask a question, get a reply; a big group of people who sew, sharing, well, anything really.
Facebook Groups: Join groups like “Sewing Lingerie and Underwear” for support and inspiration.
Suppliers
SilkBaron.com: A trusted source for a wide range of silk fabrics.
MoodFabrics.com: Offers a variety of high-quality silks for all your sewing needs.
DHgate.com: Affordable options for purchasing silk fabrics in bulk.
You can then spend time on these resources and with other enthusiasts to hone your craft further.
Silk cream de Chine has long been associated with luxury, richness and timelessness, but what really attracts women to this fabric is its unique texture, its desire to sculpt itself into beautiful curves and its elegant drape. Here we delve into the specifics of crepe de Chine silk, show what it is best for and compare it to other top-end silk fabrics: Silk Satin, Georgette and Chiffon.
Characteristics of Crepe de Chine Silk
Matte Finish
What really distinguishes Crepe de Chine and separates it from other types of silk is this subtle lack of sheen. Charmeuse by nature has a highly reflective surface. But the very slight texture along the warp and weft in Crepe de Chine creates a more muted, matte effect. It’s a minor aesthetic difference, but one that lends Crepe de Chine a more restrained and grown-up kind of elegance, suitable for applications where a less glossy fabric is called for.
Lightweight
Adding to this versatility is that crepe de Chine is a lightweight fabric. The light weight of the fabric makes it suitable for soft, flowing garments that hang well and do not have a weighted feeling. In addition to being versatile, this lightweight factor also plays a role in comfort when wearing the fabric in casual and formal outfits.
Slightly Textured
The touch of texture of the Crepe de Chine is another factor. This texture reveals more to the eye and can make a difference when creases become more visible – thus favoured for garments that you want to look good all day. Firstly comes the feel, which, despite the smoothness of the surface, is crisp and delightful.
Best Uses of Crepe de Chine Silk
Lingerie Sets
Its matte, soft finish lends itself to crepe de Chine silk, as well as the featherweight feel, making it perfect for lingerie sets. Its fine texture moulds into the body but stays comfortable, making this fabric work well for both bras and panties.
Bras
The slight texture of crepe de Chine helps bras fit closely to the skin, keeping them in place while remaining comfortable, with the light weight allowing for plenty of airflow.
Panties
Crepe de Chine is tremendously fine, supple and comfortable. It’s also permeable, which makes it the best fabric for everyday panties. Its matte texture and soft, supple surface have an elegant sensuality, which, along with the wicking effect away from the crotch area, helps keep the wearer pleasingly dry.
Comparing Crepe de Chine with Other Silk Fabrics
Silk Satin
Characteristics
High shine: Silk satin has beautiful, high-gloss shine and silkiness.
Medium Weight: Slightly heavier than charmeuse, it provides a bit more structure.
Smooth Texture: The silky smooth texture is perfect for intimate garments.
Best Uses
Robes: Silk satin robes offer a luxurious feel and elegant drape, perfect for lounging.
Chemises: The high shine and smooth texture make chemises both glamorous and comfortable.
Luxury Lingerie Items: Silk satin is perfect for chic lingerie items that exude luxury and elegance.
Silk Georgette
Characteristics
Crepe Texture: Silk georgette has a typical crepe texture, creating an interesting visual and slightly translucent effect.
Sheer and Light Weight: a light, semi sheer fabric for delicate garments.
Fluid Drape: The fluid drape of georgette enhances its elegance and versatility.
Best Uses
Delicate Lingerie: Silk georgette is perfect for creating delicate and feminine lingerie pieces.
Layering Pieces: Its sheer quality makes it ideal for layering over other lingerie.
Bralettes: The lightweight and textured nature of georgette makes it suitable for soft bralettes.
Silk Chiffon
Characteristics
Sheer: Silk chiffon is sheer and lightweight, offering a flowy and ethereal quality.
Lightweight: This fabric is extremely light and airy, perfect for creating floaty garments.
Flowy: The fluidity of chiffon makes it ideal for garments that require movement.
Best Uses
Lingerie Extras: Silk chiffon can be used as decorative accents on items of lingerie. It is very easy to manipulate and adds delicacy.
Overlays: It is perfect for overlays on more opaque fabrics, creating a layered look.
Decorative Elements: Use chiffon for ruffles, bows, and other embellishments on lingerie.
Choosing the Right Silk Fabric for Your Project
While why silk weaves are different aren’t important for your project, the different characteristics and best uses of these type of silk fabric should be. The crepe de Chine is a crinkled fabric with no shine, a lightweight and fluid texture and soft touch. It is delicate and slightly stretchy. It carries a hand-made and high-end feel, making it the perfect choice for lingerie sets, non-support bras and panties. Silk satin is highly shiny and smooth texture, yet it’s not stretchy. It’s the perfect luxurious fabric for a robe and a classic chemise. Silk georgette is also a crinkled fabric but it’s almost completely transparent, besides its low stretch, makes it perfect for light, delicate and drapey lingerie pieces, while a silk chiffon is also transparent and flowy, it has almost no stretch and can be used for fine decorations and overlay layers.
Comfort and Feel
The essential function of any garment, and especially lingerie, is to be comfortable. The fabric should be soft next to your skin, crepe de Chine and silk satin are great fabrics for their luxurious softness, while georgette and chiffon feel much lighter and more delicate.
Durability and Care
By its very nature, silk is the most fragile of all fabrics, but some weaves and styles are more resilient than others. Crepe de Chine and silk satin generally have more durability than georgette and chiffon, which need to be handled with great care. You will prolong the life of your silk pieces if you hand-wash and air-dry them.
Aesthetic Appeal
One factor that we always have to keep in mind while producing a garment is the appearance of the fabric. Think about the sheen, texture and drape of the silk. Crepe de Chine comes with a low gloss, matte and textured finish that is perfect for more low-key elegant pieces. Silk satin gives you high gloss and is good to produce luxury pieces. Georgette has a very different feel and sheen than crepe de Chine, as does chiffon.
Price Considerations
Price-wise, silk can vary a lot. Chiffon is the least costly, Crepe de Chine and satin more expensive but also more luxurious looking and feeling. Keep it balanced, consider the cost on fabric against the quality of the garment you are planning to embellish and how you intend to use it.
