How Wool Fabric is Made

1.  Introduction  

Wool has been part of humanity for millennia, supplying warmth, strength and flexibility. Wool is an integral part of the textile economy from the earliest known civilisations to the modern time. It is known for its versatility and use in a wide range of applications, ranging from clothing and household textiles to industrial purposes. Wool fabric’s unparalleled softness, warmth, wicking and environmental durability make it one of the most sought-after natural fibres. 

Wool fabric is produced in many phases, ranging from sheep shearing to the finished product that can be worn, upholstered and used for other industries. Each process, from shearing to spinning, dyeing and finishing, involves labour and technology. This article takes a comprehensive look at how wool is made, beginning with its extraction from the sheep and culminating in the finished wool fabric. By exploring each step, we will see the depth and splendour of wool’s evolution into the cloth that we know and love. 

2.  The Beginning: Wool’s Way begins with the Sheep 

Wool is an organic fibre obtained not only from sheep but also from goats, alpacas and rabbits. It has been used for millennia because of its warmth, pliability and temperature-regulating properties, making it ideally suited for both cold and warm environments. The animal itself is started from the bottom up, most importantly from sheep, selectively bred for quality wool fibres. 

A Brief Description of Wool As a Natural Fabric. 

Wool is composed of keratin, the same protein that characterises human hair and nails. This makes wool an extremely stretchy fibre, which expands and contracts to regain its original form, which helps it to be both durable and strong. Wool fibers are naturally hollow, meaning they hold air for good insulation and warmth. 

Wool production is largely determined by the species of sheep raised for wool. These varieties have varying wool qualities, texture and fibre lengths to fit specific applications. Most wool-bearing sheep are fine-wool bred sheep, such as Merino sheep, famous for their soft, fine wool, and lambs, whose first shearing is usually softest. 

Types of Wool Grown by Sheep 

Wool comes in a variety of varieties, each from a different breed of sheep. Some of the more prominent varieties of wool are: 

• Merino Wool: With fine, soft fibers, Merino wool is one of the most sought-after types of wool in the world. Merino sheep, once bred in Spain but nowadays farmed in Australia and New Zealand, are noted for having wool that feels soft enough to drape over your body. 

• Lambswool: Lambswool is the first shearing wool from a lamb at a time, typically at about six or eight months of age. Lambswool is so supple and fine that it’s the perfect choice for premium clothing and garments. 

• Shetland Wool: This wool is produced by the Shetland sheep of the Shetland Islands of Scotland. Shetland wool is rough, so it is perfect for heavy outerwear and knits. 

• Cotswold & Lincoln Wool: these are long fibres used to make heavier woollen fabrics such as tweed and carpet. 

Wool: The Function of Sheep in the Production of Wool. 

Wool is a valuable resource to the wool trade, not just for wool but because sheep deliver this fibre in a sustainable, renewable way. Wool production begins when sheep are conceived and raised for wool production. These are often kept in large flocks and need constant care to ensure that they grow the finest wool. 

Feeding and breeding are major factors that affect the quality of wool. Herds that feed on healthy pastures are more likely to have fine wool. Wool breeding is a fine art; from generation to generation, certain qualities such as fineness, length and crimp (the natural curl or wave of wool fibres) are developed by selective breeding. These are what make the wool soft, robust and generally well-suited to textile production. 

The Environmental Benefits of Wool  

Wool is an eco-resource because sheep naturally regenerate their fleece each year. This makes wool a green fibre for clothing production, compared with synthetics such as polyester and nylon, which are extracted from petroleum and can take centuries to decompose. Wool use comparatively less water and energy than synthetic fibers, making it an eco-friendly textile manufacturing process. 

In addition, wool is biodegradable.  Destroyed wool fabrics don’t emit harmful pollutants, and they naturally decay in nature. Wool is also extremely wicking, allowing you to keep your body warm without overwashing and cleaning, conserving further water and energy. As sustainability is a major priority for both buyers and manufacturers, wool’s environmentally friendly qualities make it attractive in the modern world. 

3.  Shearing: The Collection of Wool  

After the sheep have been fully fleeced and are ready for wool harvesting, shearing starts. Shearing is the earliest and most important process of wool production. The manner in which they’re sheared, the exact date, and the skill of the shearer all affect the quality of the wool produced. 

The Process of Shearing Sheep  

They shear sheep once a year to remove the wool, and keep the sheep cool in summer. Wool grows all year round, and without shearing it is heavy, messy and uncomfortable for the animal. It is crucial that shears happen when they are needed so that the wool is picked at the best of all possible conditions. 

Sheep usually get sheared early in the spring, just before summer arrives. This not only keeps the sheep comfortable, but it also means that the wool is pulled out when it is best used in textiles. 

Shearing is not a delicate job. Shearer uses special clippers to carefully cut the fleece off the sheep. The shearing is quick and accurate, taking 5 to 15 minutes per sheep depending on how skilled the shearer is. You have to remove the fleece as a whole to keep it useful in the fashion industry. The wool is generally collected and stored in big bales to avoid contamination and damage. 

The International Guide to Shearing and Welfare – Best Practices for Shearing and Animal Welfare. 

Contemporary shearing practices pay a great deal of attention to animal welfare. Humane shearing takes place without injuring the sheep. Shearers are professionals who use specialized methods so that the animals are as painless and comfortable as possible. We make every effort to not rip or bruise during the shearing process. 

Recently, the drive for animal welfare certification, including the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), regulates the humane handling of sheep. These standards ensure that sheep are well-treated, their welfare monitored, and that shearing does not create unnecessary stress or harm. 

How Shearers Gather Good Wool – Who Picks It Up? 

Wool production relies on shearers, whose skill can significantly influence the wool they take. Highly skilled shearers can cut out the fleece without wilting the fibres. The fleece is bagged into large bundles and sorted by grade. 

Premium wool is typically clean, soft and uncontaminated, whereas cheaper wool can be coarser, dirtier or degraded. Shearing should be performed in an expert manner so that the wool is as clean and void of dirt, grease and debris as possible. 

Shearing Time and Seasonal Impacts on Shearing. 

Wool quality is a question of timing. Shearing occurs once a year, just before the warmer months, although when this occurs can vary depending on the climate and wool variety. Shearing early in the year results in low wool growth; shearing late can produce poor wool. 

When sheep are born in colder climates, they are sheared later in the year so that the fleece can become thicker and keep them warmer in winter. On the other hand, in warmer climates, sheep are often sheared earlier to let them cool down in the summer months.

4.  Cleaning and Scouring: Preparing Wool for Processing. 

When sheep are sheared, their raw fleece cannot readily be turned into fabrics. Cleaning – also known as scouring – is the second major step in wool production. This process expels dirt, grease (lanolin) and vegetable matter, all naturally embedded in wool fibres during sheep production. Scrubbing cleans the wool and enables it to be carded, spun and dyed. 

Scouring Raw Wool: Washing Raw Wool 

Scouring, a method of cleaning wool, is a process in which the raw wool is washed (as well as disinfected) with water, detergents and mechanical equipment to remove a build-up of contamination. Wool, upon being first sheared, is often blanketed with dirt, sweat and grease. These substances must be excavated to make the wool fibers ready for the next steps in production. 

Dirt and Dust Extraction Getting large clumps of dirt, straw and other debris out of the wool is the first step to scouring. They can be pulled off by hand or through machines that shake or sift the wool. Large fragments of debris usually are pushed aside before the wool enters the scouring bath. 

Cleaning and Degreasing Grease (Lanolin)One of the most important elements to degrease raw wool is lanolin, a natural grease that is produced by the sheep’s sebaceous glands. Lanolin waterproofs the wool, keeping the sheep dry during moist conditions. But in textiles it is cut off so the wool can be worked. Lanolin is also valuable in its own right, with applications in a multitude of areas, from cosmetics and medicines to industrial lubricants. 

Lanolin is extracted by soaking the wool in hot water, usually with mild detergents or alkalinizers. This eats the grease up so that it can be flushed out of the fibres. The water temperature and detergent are precisely adjusted so as to minimise the chance of damaging the wool itself. 

Mechanical methods In some cases, mechanical methods are used alongside the soak process. Wool could be stirred in huge tanks or drums to help remove dirt and lanolin. These are machines that agitate (and sometimes push) the dirt and dries it out. The wool is then rinsed several times to ensure all dirt and grease is completely washed away. 

What is Lanolin and How to Use It? 

Lanolin is a waxy substance that is removed from the wool when it’s scourered. It is a useful by-product of wool production for numerous purposes: 

• Cosmetics: Lanolin is commonly used in lotions, creams, and lip balms as it has a moisturizing effect. It’s breathable on the skin and prevents moisture from escaping. 

• Medical Products: Lanolin is used in medical ointments and creams because it forms a barrier on the skin. It is also applied to dry skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis. 

• Lanolin in Industrial Use: Lanolin is employed as a lubricant for a variety of mechanical applications and is occasionally added to grease formulations. 

Despite its benefits, lanolin must be removed from wool for processing because it is sticky and impractical to work with. Even the wool industry has figured out a way to use up lanolin without having to dump it. 

Problems Associated with Cleaning The Cleaning Procedure 

Scrubbing is necessary to clean wool, but it is problematic in many ways: 

Water Consumption and Treatment of Wastewater Scouring consumes large amounts of water, which is an environmental issue, especially in water-poor areas. The water used to scour is then stained with lanolin, dirt and detergent chemicals, creating wastewater that must be managed. 

We know that wool factories often have ways to recycle and disinfect this waste water. Filtration, chemical, and biological treatment can be applied to clean contaminants before letting the water run out into the atmosphere. 

Scouring consumes energy because the water from which lanolin is removed needs to be heated. Manufacturers are increasingly seeking ways to efficiently heat water and minimise energy consumption in the wool-processing process, in order to reduce their footprint. 

, or damage to wool during the scouring process. Too much friction, heat or chemical damage to wool fibres can degrade its properties and durability. That’s why the chemicals and techniques employed in scouring are carefully monitored. 

5.  Carding: Aligning Wool Fibers  

Once scoured and cleaned, the wool is prepared for carding. Carding involves separating, scrubbing and laying fibers out for spinning. This is important to keep the fibers flat and even, so that they can be spun into yarn. 

What is Carding?  

Carding is the process of brushing or combing the wool fibers to remove them and align them. The process involves running the wool through a set of delicate wire rollers (known as carding machines) that tear the fibres apart and smoothen them. The result is a smooth and uniform mat of wool called a “carded web” or “roving”. 

Carding is intended to do two things: to separate the clumps and knots in the wool; and to lay out the fibres into yarns that are easy to spin. Carded wool makes the wool easier to spin and makes a finer, more consistent yarn. 

The Role of Carding Machines  

Carding machines are large mechanical apparatuses that process the cards through a series of rollers and combs. They put the wool into the machine, and the rollers move at various speeds to spin the fibres apart and centre them. The rollers are coated in metal teeth or small hooks, which grasp the wool and unravel any lumps or knots. 

Carding machines of different varieties: 

• Hand Carding: Hand carding is a traditional technique by which wool is carded by hand by means of two large wire-toothed combs or paddles. Hand carding, though time-consuming, can be utilised for smaller-scale production and provides greater control over the feel of the wool. 

• Industrial Carding: These days the wool mills use industrial carders which are incredibly fast and efficient. These machines can take on enormous quantities of wool and cut it with greater consistency. Industrial carding machines are typically fully automated and need very little user intervention to run smoothly. 

What Carding Means For Identifying Texture. 

Carding determines the surface finish of the final wool cloth. The more thoroughly the wool is carded, the smoother and more homogeneous the yarn will be. Carded wool from which you don’t have a great deal of experience can give you a gimble feel, a clumpy yarn, and a cheaper finished product. 

Not only does carding flatten and straighten the fibers, but it also gets the wool rid of all the tiny remnants or impurities that remain. It is in this manner that wool starts to form into something suitable for spinning into yarn and each fibre is ready for the next step of production. 

6.  Spinning: Turning Wool into Yarn  

The fibers of wool, once carded and straightened, are then spun into yarn. Spinning involves squeezing the wool fibres together into long lines of yarn that can be woven or knitted into fabric. Spinners mechanically pull and twist the carded wool fibers into threads, which yield yarn of varying thickness, texture and strength. 

How To Spin Wool: Weaving Wools into Woven Fabrics. 

Using a spinning machine, carded wool fibres are fed into the machine, where they are twisted into yarn. This twisting of fibres is used for several purposes: 

• Fiber Twist : The fibers are twisted together to produce a stronger yarn that resists the tension of the weave or knitting process. 

• Thickness: The more twists per inch, the tidier and denser the yarn. In contrast, fewer twists make thicker yarns. The gauge of the yarn will determine the feel and weight of the finished fabric. 

• Similarity: Spinners aim to create consistent, uniform yarn. Good yarn is defined by how even the wool fibres are, and how well the spinning occurs. The more uniform the yarn, the smoother and more durable the resulting fabric. 

Spinning Machines: Types and Techniques  

The spinning machines come in several kinds, each suitable for different yarns and uses: 

• Ring Spinning: It’s the most used way to spin fine, high-quality yarn. Ring spinning involves dragging the carded wool fibers over a number of rollers, twisting them and winding the resulting yarn on a bobbin. The technique yields a smooth, uniform yarn that works well for luxurious textiles. 

• Open-End Spinning: A rotor spins the fibres of the wool which allows faster production. Open-end spinning is often employed with coarser yarns and is typically used to create fabric, such as jeans or furniture fabrics. 

• Worsted Spinning: Wool fibers are combed and stitched together to create a stiff, elastic yarn. Worsted spinning is commonly applied to fine wool fibers, like those used in high-end suits, scarves and other high-end fabrics. 

• Woolen Spinning: Woolen spinning is a method of separating the wool and then turning it without combing to produce a thicker and softer yarn that has a more fuzzier surface. Woollen yarns are typically used for fuzzy blankets and oversized sweaters. 

What Contributes to Yarn Thickness and Strength? 

A few factors determine how the final yarn is spun: 

• TPI: Twist per inch (TPI): The number of twists per inch affects the durability and feel of the yarn. High twists per inch equals finer, more durable yarn; low twists per inch equals thicker, less durable yarn. 

• Fiber Length: Longer fibers produce stronger yarn, and shorter fibers may lead to thinner yarn that is prone to breaking. 

• Fiber Quality: In addition to fiber’s fineness, crimp and cleanliness, the quality of the wool affects how strong and smooth the spun yarn is.

We use walnut shells to make brown. 

The plus side to natural dyes is that they are biodegradable, renewable and sustainable, but they are not as predictable and might offer fewer options of colour than synthetics. 

Synthetic Dye Synthetic dyes are synthetic chemical compounds that provide a larger range of vibrant and consistent colors than natural dyes. Synthetic dyes revolutionised the textile industry in the 19th century by making dyeing more effective and cheaper. The most common synthetic dyes used on wool are: 

• Acid Dyes: These are the most widely applied dyes to wool which are highly lustrous and able to adhere to the wool fibre. 
• Reactive Dyes: These dyes bind extremely well to the fibres, creating fast-washing and lightfast colors. 
• Simple Dyes: These are less abundant but are used for dyeing wool in intense, vivid colors. 

Synthetic dyes can create a bigger palette of colours, and more uniform colours, but their environmental impact is increasingly problematic, especially with toxic chemicals and the use of water. 

• The Color of Dye: From Incubation to Color Installation. 

The dyeing process depends on whether the wool is dyed in fiber, yarn or fabric. The general processes of dyeing are fairly similar, whatever the point at which it is dyed. 

Wool Preparation Wool should be prepared prior to dyeing. These can include washing the wool thoroughly to remove dirt or leftover oils (lanolin). When producing yarns and fabrics, the wool will be wound into a skein or spool to make it easier to manipulate. 

There are many immersion methods of dyeing Immersion Wool that involve immersing the wool in a dye bath. The most popular immersion techniques are: 

• Kettle Dyeing: The dye is added to wool in a dye bath, and heated so that the dye reaches the fibers. The dyes are mixed at a temperature that doesn’t unevenly absorb the dye. 
• Exhaust Dyeing: Often applied to yarns and fabrics, in this technique wool is immersed in a bath of dye under controlled conditions. The dye is taken up by the fibres via exhaustion, where the solution slowly dries out and the wool absorbs the colour. 

Setting the Color Once the wool is placed in the dye bath for the desired duration, it is removed and rinsed to clear excess dye. When natural dyes are used, a fixing solution (or mordant) can be applied to the fibres so that the dye will stick to them and set the colour. When it comes to artificial colours, the colour is generally fixed by heating them or varying the pH of the dye bath. 

After Dye Treatments The wool is thoroughly washed after dyeing so as to remove the dye. It can be heat- or air-dried, depending on the type of wool and the final use. The wool can be treated with other treatments, including washing, to get a fast and lasting colour. 

Environmental Concerns Surrounding Wool Dyeing  

Dyeing wool may create beautiful, colourful garments, but it is very ecologically detrimental. Synthetic dyes in particular are contaminated because of the poisonous chemicals that go into their dyeing. The following are just a few of the ecological concerns that wool dyeing raises: 

Water Contamination Dyeing wool requires large amounts of water to make the dye bath and the water can be polluted with toxic chemicals and dyes. In other less-developed nations, this untreated effluent tends to leak into the rivers or other waterways, contaminating them. 

Consumption of energy The dyeing process, especially when using artificial dyes, can be very energy-consuming, requiring long processing times at high temperatures. This adds to the carbon footprint of wool fabric production. 

Chemical Waste Synthetic dyes usually contain toxic chemicals, such as heavy metals, that can harm both humans and the environment. Dye waste if not treated properly can pollute the soil and water. 

Wool manufacturers are attempting to overcome these worries by switching to more environmentally friendly dyeing. Low-impact dyes that don’t use as much water and energy to apply are increasingly popular. Mordants and natural dyes are also becoming increasingly eco-friendly. Textile manufacturers also invest in water-treatment systems and dyes that are as eco-friendly as possible. 

8.  Knitting or Weaving: Turning Yarn Into Cloth. 

Once dyed and spun into yarn, wool can then be turned into cloth. Woven and knitted cloth are the two most common ways of producing wool. Both processes convert wool yarn into textiles suitable for a variety of applications, from garments to home furnishings. This chapter will explore both methods, as well as differences in the various wool cloths used. 

• The Loom Process: How Wool Yarn Is Woven on Looms 

Weaving is weaving two threads, the warp (vertical) and the weft (horizontal), together to make cloth. The yarns are fed into a loom, which is a device that suspends the warp threads and threads the weft through them. It produces different fabrics, depending on the structure of the weave. 

The Basic Weaving Steps  

• Warping: Putting the warp threads on the loom is the very first phase of weaving. They run the threads tight across the loom. 
• Shuttle: The shuttle moves the weft yarn around the loom, slipping over and under the warp. 
• Beat: Following each shuttle pass, a piece of machinery known as the reed pushes the weft threads into the fibre until it is at the required density. 
• Finishing: After weaving, the fabric is taken off the loom and finished in various ways such as washing, pressing, and giving the final texture. 

Weaving Methods Different weave methods create fabrics of various textures, strengths, and finishes. The most commonly encountered weaves in wool cloth are: 

• Pure Weft: The basic and the most used weave in which each weft thread loops over and under each warp thread. This produces a balanced, sturdy fabric. 
• Twill Weave: A woven fabric which has a diagonal line running across the surface, twill is often used on woollen fabrics such as tweed and jeans. 
• Satin Weave: Creates a high-shine, glossy surface. We typically use satin wool for luxurious fabrics and clothing. 

Basics of Knitting: Getting Wool to Work: A Beginner’s Guide to Knitting 

Another technique for weaving wool fibres into fabric is yarn-making. Knitting doesn’t weave two yarn sets, but instead weaves a single, continuous piece of yarn into loops that link together. This makes the fabric stretchier and flexible than that of a woven material. 

Knitting Techniques  

• Knitting by Hand: Using needles, you make loops of yarn and stitch them in rows together. Knitted wool is typically worn in sweaters, scarves, and hats. 
• Machine Knitting: Machines knit fabric with yarn faster than knitting with hands. Wool textiles are machine-knitted and used by fashion and textile companies to knit larger numbers of objects. 

Types of Knitted Wool Fabrics  

• Jersey Knit: A type of knit fabric that is stretchy and smooth. It is most commonly worn on tees and casual wear. 
• Ribbed Knit: Contains vertical ribs and is used in garments such as sweaters, cuffs, and collars. 
• Cable Knit: A knit pattern that carries a raised braid pattern across the fabric surface. 

What Is The Difference Between Woven And Knitted Wool Fabrics? 

The main distinction between knitted and woven wool fibres lies in the way they feel, how durable and strong they are: 

• Woven Wool: Fabrics made from woven wool are generally stiffer and stable, and are stronger and more resilient. We normally use them for suits, coats, and upholstery. 
• Knitted Wool: Knitted fabrics are pliable and stretchy which makes it good for sweaters and active wear. 

9.  Elastancia: The Final Appearance And Feel Of Wool Fabric. 

Once wool is woven or knitted into cloth, it is finished with a set of finishing touches that improve its appearance, feel and durability. Finishing can change the feel (hand), shrinkage, and appearance of the fabric, and it is employed to provide additional characteristics such as water resistance or anti-wrinkle. 

• Final Finish: Softening, shrinking and stretching Woolen Textiles. 
• Fulling: Fulling consists of washing the wool fabric with hot water and friction, causing the fibres to contract and contract into a dense, thicker fabric. Fulling increases the thickness and warmth of the fabric, making it perfect for outerwear and blankets. 

• Brushing: Brushing is a technique used to pull the fibers of the cloth up to form a soft, fuzzy feel. It is most commonly found in textiles such as flannel. 

• Steaming: The steaming softens the fabric and gives it a fit. This is often used on wool fabrics to unwrinkle them and give them a satin-like appearance. 

Final Treatments for Wool Fabrics  

• Apart from the physical manipulations, wool fabrics can also be treated chemically to improve their performance: 

• Water-Resistant Coatings: Wool can be coated with a water-repellent coating, making it ideal for rainwear and winter wear. 
• Anti-Wrinkle Finishes: Woolen fabrics can also have finishes to eliminate wrinkles, so that clothes remain sharp for a long time. 

10.  Quality Control and Packaging  

For a wool cloth’s reputation and longevity, maintaining its quality at every stage of manufacture is important. This quality control cycle goes through many phases, from the raw wool to the finished packaged fabric for distribution. 

Inspection and Testing  

Wool fabric is carefully checked for imperfections such as dye splotches, texture differences, or weaving or knitting mistakes. The fabric is also tested for color fastness, toughness, and other parameters to guarantee industry quality. 

Packaging and Labeling  

Once the wool fabric passes inspection, it is carefully packed for export. The packaging involves squeezing the fabric into massive bolts or bales that are transported to textile factories, manufacturers, and retailers. Importantly, wool needs to be labelled in a way that allows consumers to know its grade, where it is made, and how to handle it.

Yashvi Jain

Yashvi Jain, a writer by day and reader by night, is an accomplished content writer and published author of ‘Mind Under Construction. Yashvi possesses extensive knowledge of fabrics, sustainability, and literature. On occasions, you would catch her scripting for her YouTube channel, engrossed in fiction, or ardently dedicating her time to research and storytelling.